This week we took an overnight trip to Strasbourg which is the capital of Alsace, the eastern-most region of France.  Alsace straddles the border between France and Germany and throughout history has ping-ponged between the two.  It officially rejoined France as recently as 1918 but maintains a Germanic feel and flavor.  The joint cultural heritage of this region is evident in the Hansel-and-Gretel style architecture, the comfort-food cuisine, and the traditional Christmas markets which abound.  This is also where Gutenberg lived in 1439 when he conceived of the printing press. The city center is dominated by a magnificent ancient cathedral with stained glass from the 13th and 14th centuries; it towers over the square and inside there is a jaw-dropping mechanical clock.  The tradition of holding outdoor Christmas markets in the squares of Strasbourg dates all the way back to the 16th century.  Russ and I had never been to Alsace and we have fond memories of visiting the Christmas market in Luxembourg when we were in college.  On this trip, we set out with a focused agenda:  enjoy one of the largest Christmas markets in France and sample the gluhwein (pronounced “glue-vine”), a hot mulled red wine which warms you down to your toes.  We slipped away for an overnight stay just before Russ’s graduation from the Sorbonne language course and cousin Zoe’s arrival. While the weather was cold and damp, the market did not disappoint.  The squares were filled with stalls selling every kind of confection you could imagine:  we tasted pretzels, gingerbread, waffles, choucroute (sauerkraut with spaetzle and bacon), and—of course—gluhwein.  We discovered a kid version as well:  steaming hot orange juice with honey – a drink to keep you going on a cold winter's day.  There were also vendors selling traditional crafts and piping hot chestnuts.  We had fun choosing a host of colorful wooden ornaments which we will inaugurate on our Christmas tree in London later this month. We capped off our visit with a spin on the skating rink.  Carter and Katherine laced their skates and dredged up memories of pre-school lessons as they gamely took to the ice.  We giggled as we watched them glide along amidst the throngs of French kids all trying to outdo one another.  We’re learning that some things are wonderfully, comfortingly, universal.  Like kids and Christmas.