We hopped a flight from London to Bordeaux, rented a caravan of cars, and drove into the countryside of southwestern France. This is Aquitaine, the region controlled by the British during the Hundred Years War, a period of time when related royal families in both Paris and London had a legitimate claim to rule France. Cutting across the Aquitaine is the Dordogne River, meandering through rolling green fields, forested hills and limestone cliffs. The cliffs here are pocked with caves; Neanderthals lived here 50,000 years ago and they have been inhabited since.
From the eleventh through fifteenth centuries especially, French and English nobles raised impressive, businesslike castles along the Dordogne… often within sight of enemy castles across the water. In modern times the region remained largely agricultural, so today there are still crumbling castles, towered manors, and medieval villages waiting around each river bend.
The local gastronomy is famous for truffles, foie gras, duck steak, strawberries, walnuts, nut liquers, and creamy round goat cheese buttons called cabecou.
In August the days start with a mist that rises from the valleys and burns off over a couple of hours – just in time for lunch. This is followed by lazy sunny afternoons with temperatures in the 80s, cooled by light breezes, with daylight stretching past 8pm.
It all adds up to a fabulous vacation spot. We went there for a week of relaxation, bridging the high-energy city tours of London and Paris. To enjoy the region in style, we rented an ancient nobleman’s manoir attached by stoneworks to the famous Beynac Castle. The grounds and pool commanded a hilltop view of the Dordogne River passing Beynac Village, which is in the center of the region. Across the valley we could see the Chateau Vezac and the Castle Castelnaud.
Beynac remained in French hands throughout, whereas Castelnaud was controlled by the English enemy at times, so we were echoing history when we studied the opposite castle. Perched in this hilltop manoir we could watch canoes paddling down the river, martins swooping through the sky with quick turns, and hot-air balloons crossing the valley at sunset.
We did some light touring each day and spent most afternoons at the pool. The Chateau de Beynac (left picture below; photo taken from the walls of Castelnaud) had to be our first stop – just a 5 minute walk uphill. The walls are impressively high – the comforts starkly absent.
The next day we visited Castlenaud (right picture below) and enjoyed exhibits on the arts of war and medieval life.
On the 15th of August, France celebatrated the Assumption, which is when Mary went to Heaven. There were more fireworks that night than we will see at the 4th of July!
Wednesday, we strolled the squares and streets of Sarlat, admiring the golden stone walls and 14th century timber houses.
Another day was devoted to prehistoric man – we viewed cave paintings at Lascaux II which is the “Sistine Chapel” of prehistoric art and came away thrilled and inspired at what our forebears were capable of doing (and feeling) even 17,000 years ago. There are dot and cross symbols on these paintings that have been found at other caves as far away as Spain and clearly have meaning yet have never been deciphered.
After a decadent lunch at a 17th century mill we continued the prehistory day at La Roque Saint Christophe - a deep fissure running 300 yards long in the cliff face above the river; people lived inside the fissure dating all the way back to Neanderthal times 50,000 years ago. (see left picture below) Later a medieval community of blacksmiths, potters, tradesmen and merchants lived here. With catapults and stones threatening all boat traffic on the river, the town must have earned a great deal in tolls as well.
We rounded out the week with a medieval festival at the Cadoiun Abbey. (right picture below)
By Saturday we were rested, refreshed, tanned and ready for Paris. However I saw a strange reflection in the windows as we boarded the TGV to Paris. After eating so much foie gras, had we picked up a waddle? Surely not! What I could see clearly though was a diet in my future.
Like it or not, the end of summer was approaching. We resolved to make the most of our few days together in Paris as an extended family.
Beynac remained in French hands throughout, whereas Castelnaud was controlled by the English enemy at times, so we were echoing history when we studied the opposite castle. Perched in this hilltop manoir we could watch canoes paddling down the river, martins swooping through the sky with quick turns, and hot-air balloons crossing the valley at sunset.
We did some light touring each day and spent most afternoons at the pool. The Chateau de Beynac (left picture below; photo taken from the walls of Castelnaud) had to be our first stop – just a 5 minute walk uphill. The walls are impressively high – the comforts starkly absent.
The next day we visited Castlenaud (right picture below) and enjoyed exhibits on the arts of war and medieval life.
On the 15th of August, France celebatrated the Assumption, which is when Mary went to Heaven. There were more fireworks that night than we will see at the 4th of July!
Wednesday, we strolled the squares and streets of Sarlat, admiring the golden stone walls and 14th century timber houses.
Another day was devoted to prehistoric man – we viewed cave paintings at Lascaux II which is the “Sistine Chapel” of prehistoric art and came away thrilled and inspired at what our forebears were capable of doing (and feeling) even 17,000 years ago. There are dot and cross symbols on these paintings that have been found at other caves as far away as Spain and clearly have meaning yet have never been deciphered.
After a decadent lunch at a 17th century mill we continued the prehistory day at La Roque Saint Christophe - a deep fissure running 300 yards long in the cliff face above the river; people lived inside the fissure dating all the way back to Neanderthal times 50,000 years ago. (see left picture below) Later a medieval community of blacksmiths, potters, tradesmen and merchants lived here. With catapults and stones threatening all boat traffic on the river, the town must have earned a great deal in tolls as well.
We rounded out the week with a medieval festival at the Cadoiun Abbey. (right picture below)
By Saturday we were rested, refreshed, tanned and ready for Paris. However I saw a strange reflection in the windows as we boarded the TGV to Paris. After eating so much foie gras, had we picked up a waddle? Surely not! What I could see clearly though was a diet in my future.
Like it or not, the end of summer was approaching. We resolved to make the most of our few days together in Paris as an extended family.
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