Aug 04

Sledding on the Roof of Europe

by in Europe, Switzerland

We are now visiting Wengen, a village perched partway up the slopes of the Swiss Alps, where there are no automobiles.  The only ways in are cog-rail, cablecar, or by foot.  Why here?  My family had visited Wengen when I was 17 years old and it made a lasting impact.  Now I wanted my children to see these same mountains.  I hoped a few scenes of beauty would stay with them against the challenges of life ahead. There are several mountains to visit in this region.  We started today right at the top, the Jungfrau, also called the Roof of Europe.  To get there, we chugged upward by cog rail past valleys and then above the snow line and through 5 miles of underground tunnels.  We reached the observation building which is just a few hundred meters below the peak, at about 4000 meters above sea level. We gazed at the peaks of Jungfrau, Monck and Eiger and we watched the hikers far below.  These are the three most famous peaks in Switzerland after the Matterhorn.  The "virgin young lady" is protected by the "mountainous monk" from the dangerous Eiger.  Eiger in German means something long and pointy like a staff; we are not sure of the exact meaning. Then we went down the steps and walked out onto the ice of the largest glacier in Europe, stretching out ten miles ahead, with a view all the way into Italy.  The Swiss have some snow sports organized here.  Although we all felt lightheaded from the high altitude equivalent to halfway up Mount Everest, both Carter and Katherine rallied.  They enjoyed a sled ride 100 meters down the glacier and were happy to discover a lift could easily bring them back up. Accompanying us on the trip was Ueli Sommer, a veteran Bergfuhrer (mountain guide), who has ascended the peaks of Eiger and Jungfrau over  400 times.  We heard stories of climbing all over the world and we learned how the glacier can take on different colors, due to sand blowing in all the way from the Sahara Desert.  Ueli ran the emergency rescue services in this region and the national dog rescue for many years, and we learned the Swiss do keep trained rescue dogs all over the country.  One incident with St. Bernards living in an Alpine monastery gives a shred of truth to the famous Swiss icon, but the breed is too heavy to be practical.  The Swiss use only German Shepherds and give them three full years of training for the job. We then walked under the complex and into the bedrock of the glacier itself.  Here we entered an ice cave filled with sculptures and tunnels carved by the Swiss.  The ice near the peak is "only" four hundreds years old, so we were a bit surprised to see a prehistoric character buried in the walls.  Touring at high altitude is more exhausting than it would seem.  On the ride down nearly everyone on the train fell asleep.  It was a fitting conclusion after all the dreamy feelings we had experienced on the rooftop of Europe.

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